F A S H I O N - Surekha Kadapa-Bose ( Courtesy - BTW Magazine)

Encore Brocade

Once a royal indulgence, this rich textile is not just scorching ramps internationally but also touching our daily lives

Asign of royalty in years gone by, the brocade is now weaving its lustrous magic on laymen as well. And it’s not just about the way we wear our fabrics, but also what we accessorise it with. Responsible for this renewed interest in the fabric and its revival are designers, both Indian and international. Brocade is one of those few textiles which both the genders can lay claim to. They embellish not just evening gowns, saris, lehengas and cholis, but also sherwanis, achkans and vests.

Brocade adds to the value of any garment which requires a classy, rich and regal look. Joining the bandwagon are the accessories. Ladies bags, especially party bags, shoes and even mojries for men are being made using brocade textiles

“Brocades have an eternal appeal and can never go out of fashion,” explains Meera
Mahadevia, the diva of designer bags. “Earlier, the good old royalty used it to flaunt their status and it was known as Kinkhab, where the silk fabric was woven with threads made of only gold and silver. Today, the fabric has gained immense popularity with designers innovating with different colours.”

Brocade is a heavy fabric, interwoven with rich, raised designs. From the time it was conceived, it has been known as a fabric of the aristocrats. The first known existence of brocade is traced to China, to circa 3630 BC. Some pseudo morphs, impressions left by a textile on bronze or jade, date back to the Shang dynasty - 16th to 11th century BC. Present-day weavers are amazed at the beautiful patterns in brocades produced during the Hun Dynasty.

Basically an Asian textile, it has been used by Western designers in making apparels and furnishings. Explaining this phenomenon, designer Raghavendra Rathore says, “As the brocade is extremely Indian in nature, Indian wear compliments it and vice versa. With reference to Western wear, clever usage can give it a touch of ethnicity, while maintaining the global appeal.’’ Elaborating the names of international design houses that are successfully using brocade, designer Vikram Phadnis says, “Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana are some of the designers who have incorporated satin brocades and balance it very well in their collection.’’ At the recently concluded Lakme Fashion Week, Phadnis showcased an entire range of brocade apparel.

New York-based designer Gurmeet Pia Fleming of label BIAN says, “Brocade is not a fabric exclusive to India. It has been used for a long time in France, Russia, Australia, Spain, Italy, China and Japan. Each has a traditional version of brocade with their own design and patterns of weave. A lot of international designers have used it in the past and continue to use it in their collections. Christian Lacroix, Valentino, House of Dior, Shanghai Tank and Carolina Harerra use them very well.’’

Delhi-based shoe designer Swati Mehrotra of label Swatimodo shoes opines, “Of late, people are demanding brocade shoes. These are so very Indian. But imagine a boot or a classic pump in brocade! It looks awesome...modern yet so very Indian.’’ For this season, she has designed exclusive shoes, chappals and thongs using brocade.

“I like to use it in my designing because it cuts down the garment and adds beauty and class to it. The colours, prints and the patterns fascinate me,’’ elaborates Phadnis.

“Its rich weave inspired from the heritage of India is intricate to my designs and gives them high-end value ,’’ explains Rathore. “This fabric is evident in the essence of designs which are inherent to Rajasthan and India as a whole. The spurt in the international arena is only evident because of ‘trend India’ that is now omnipresent in the fashion world.’’

The reasons Fleming likes brocades are, “It has structure and dimension. It lends itself well to the making of tailored clothing. The cross weaves allow different materials to be woven together and create patterns that capture and reflect light in variation. It has lustre and sheen.’’

Another aspect that has caught the fancy of designers is its adaptability. It can be used as a whole garment or in small brocade patches on any garment that needs embellishment. Designer Manish Malhotra during the recently concluded Lakme Fashion Week displayed his brocade-patched saris to good effect. Concludes Rathore: “The true value of this fabric lies in the rich traditional quintessence that it brings with it. However, depending on the designer’s ability to innovate and adapt a traditional fabric to a modern design, the outcome can be quite chic and extremely wearable without displaying the traditional edge that it is so often associated with.”