F A S H I O N - Surekha Kadapa-Bose ( Courtesy - BTW Magazine)
Khadi Magic
Contemporary fashion designers are using their creativity to give a new meaning to the fabric of yore. Something that was relegated to the days of Gandhi is now uber cool
Gone are the days when the fabric was synonymous with swatantra sainanis (freedom fighters) and the clan of politicians. It is also no more the attire of Bollywood celluloid characters dedicated to weeping, sniveling or coughing widows played by the likes of Sulochana, Achala Sachdev et al. Today, an uber cool fabric, Khadi, tops the chart of trends.
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The humble handspun fabric, popularised by Mahatma Gandhi during the country’s freedom struggle, has become the most sought after fabric by fashion designers and the glitterati. With the Indian
summer heat on our heads, putting on something that’s trendy as well as comfort-driven comes
as a relief.
“Khadi is one of those Indian fabrics which apart from making a style statement, have turned tables in the international market. This is a fabric which rules the popularity list in the international markets and sells at a high price there,’’ says Ahmedabad-based designer Digvijay Singh. “Several international designers are using Khadi in a big way in their collections.’’ |
Hyderabad-based fashion designerAsmita Marwa’s love affair with the fabric started when she was a toddler and used to play in her grandmother’s lap.
`` My grandma Laxmi Gunti wore only Khadi saris in off whites and beige with gentle coloured borders. The softness and comfort of that fabric attracted me so much that I’ve always loved to design in Khadi fabric,’’ says Asmita, who sells from Mélange in Mumbai.
In fact, at Lakmé Fashion Week, she showcased her Khadi collection where she very innovatively matched rich Benaras bro-cade saris with loose-fitting full-sleeved beige coloured Khadi blouses and virgin white Khadi trousers splashed with`Satyamev Jayate’ written in black ink in Telugu. The trousers were matched with brocade, silk or Khadi jackets.
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“The slightly uneven texture of Khadi fabric that comes in the hand-woven material adds its own beauty to the attire,” says Mumbai-based designer Rahul Mishra whose creations are stocked in outlets like Zoya, Aza and Mélange. “I prefer handspun Khadi to power loom cottons and get it woven by Kerala’s
Balrampuram-based Padmashree award winner and master craftsman, Gopinath. I visit Balrampuram and discuss the colours and fabric with him and get what I want.”
Kolkata-based designer Soumitra Mondal has been working with Khadi for several years now and sells from Aza and The Oak Tree in Mumbai. Says Soumitra, “Khadi is a very beautiful fabric and has domestic acceptance. |
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But what is needed is to develop more designs and proper marketing. Though
people are more conscious about natural fabric, many still don’t understand Khadi as a ‘comfort fabric’. The soft textured fabric breathes well, and with the infusion of vibrant colours and a dash of contemporary designs, can look ultra chic.’’
Mondal works with weavers from Islampur near Kolkata. Instead of using Khadi as a single fabric, designers add innovations like using silk Khadi, linen silk and mixing any other natural yarn that blends well with Khadi to get a novel material.
Adds Digvijay, “Though Khadi is easily available in the market, sometimes I get the fabric specially woven if I am following a special concept in my design. I also get most of my Khadi garments natural or herbal dyed, which simply enhances the beauty of the fabric..”
Retailing from Melange (Mumbai), Opium (Ahmedabad), Persona and Miaih (both in Hyderabad) and Zarah (Bangalore), he uses Khadi in its pure cotton form as he prefers the coarseness of the fabric. “I don’t like mixing it with silk or linen. The bumps in the yarn in the fabric which are seen as faulty fabric by some, is the beauty of the fabric for me,’’ he explains. |
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Dwelling on the increasing popularity of the fabric, Asmita says, ``Many in South India love Khadi. It’s popular among teenagers and collegians.
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Jeansclad girls and boys wear Khadi tops either in plain colours, with prints orsome interesting motifs or embroidery.’’ Even Soumitra feels, ``As Khadi is anatural fabric with some individuality, its production is limited unlike the power loom fabric. So you can’t find Khadi in every shop.’’
The best character of this fabric is that it suits both men and women just asit suits both Indian and Western wear. Another highlight is that, as it is handwoven, a particular fabric is available only in 25 mts. With this, dressesbecome quite unique unlike power loom cottons, which can be manufactured in 1000 mts of length. |
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With almost all the top designers showcasing in this fabric and several celebrities preferring to be seen in it, it’s goodbye to the days of Khadi being an ordinary piece of garment.
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