If Carpets could fly… It would be none other than the kilims of Istanbul that interweave a venerable and complex history of the land

We whizzed through the night at a pace that said this was Europe. But then the car climbed up cobbled streets and we saw lit minarets and domes that said this must be the Orient. It was our first memorable introduction to Istanbul – at the crossroads of Asia and Europe, where Eastern and Western civilisations combine in a harmonious synergy. We were in the city where Bosphorous (the strait that lies in the centre of Istanbul) flowed in all its colours, giving Istanbul its distinctive character. On cloudy days

the grey tones resembled a very European city. On other days the dazzling blue gave the city its bustling character. Fittingly, it is this sea that serves as a border for the two halves of Istanbul, dividing Asia and Europe.

Like Rome, Istanbul also shares the privilege of having been the capital of two empires -- the Byzantine, and later the Ottoman. This rich cultural heritage is beautifully represented in the profusion of historical monuments dotting the city. Add to this a seacoast of unparalleled beauty, and surrounding hills, and it becomes clear why Istanbul or Constantinople as it was once known is such a vibrant tourist destination.

We stayed in one of the charming small hotels that dot the hill slopes of Sultanahmet. At breakfast we got a glorious view of the turquoise blue Bosphorus. From another angle we could see the beautiful domes of the Aya Sophia and the Blue Mosque. Stepping inside Aya Sophia or Hagia Sophia (Divine Wisdom) is like embarking on a journey spanning several centuries. The Aya Sophia with its three-naved basilica design is constructed on the foundations of an old wooden building that had been burnt down. Its construction was financed by Emperor Theodosius. Partially destroyed during a revolt, the monument was reconstructed by Emperor Justinian who ordered the best of marble from the Mediterranean countries and brought together a huge team of masons and labourers. Several centuries later, restoration work on the rich Byzantine mosaics that had been covered with stucco in 1750 was ordered by the founder of modern Turkey, Kemal Ataturk.

The Blue Mosque, a splendid monument, was constructed by the 14th Ottoman, Sultan Ahmet. It has six minarets placed at the corners instead of the usual four. Since we visited Istanbul during Ramadan, this mosque and its surrounding lawns were a non-stop beehive of activity with prayer services, and visitors marveling at its architectural wonders.

At iftar, the lawns turned into scenes of joyful celebration. Crowds thronged the stalls selling gaily coloured sweets, including the famous Turkish Delight, or queued up for doners and kebabs. One evening we decided to try out the Turkish ice cream or dondurma at one of these stalls. We put out our hands for the cones, but the owner put up his own very special jugglery act with the cones and the sticky ice cream. After much entertainment we finally got to slurp on chewy ice cream.

For at least three days we soaked in the history of the Sultanahmet area including monuments like the Hippodrome where various sporting activities took place under the Romans, the Egyptian Obelisk which is Istanbul's oldest monument built by the Pharaohs in 15th century BC, the Serpentine column brought by Constantine from the Apollon temple in Delphi and the underground Yerabatan cisterns where water tanks, lights and classical music combine to create a very mystical atmosphere.

Also memorable was the huge covered market or Kapalicarsi with its fountains and shops selling all kinds of exotic wares. If you’re a rug lover this is the place to be. In fact, the kilim is the world here! Intricately woven kilims of varied sizes, from Daghestan cradle covers and Anatolian village rug to prayer rugs are all available beginning with a modest $500 and reaching an astronomically high $5,000.

The Topkapi palace, one of the most frequently visited museums of Europe, took up almost a full day. Some of the sights we savoured among hundreds of rooms and gardens were the harem section, the section for eunuchs, the treasury exhibiting the jewels of the empire, a splendid collection of calligraphy and exquisite blue tiles for which Turkey is famous. Adjoining the palace is the Istanbul Archaeology Museum. With its distinguished exhibits from Egypt, Anatolia and Mesopotamia, one is acutely aware of how Istanbul can rightly claim to be the cradle of various civilisations.

One evening we went off to Sirkeci station. This was the destination of the famed Orient Express (so magnificently used as a backdrop by Agatha Christie). Unfortunately, the train, once a symbol of grand travel, now no longer runs to Istanbul. But in the old waiting room we watched another legacy unfurl itself. The Dervishes of the Sufi Group of Istanbul, Galata Melevi Lodge, put up a mesmeric show of whirling and swirling in their distinctive white robes amid pin-drop silence and concentration.

When we felt overwhelmed with all the history, we escaped by taking the ferry to Uskudar on the Asian side or to Kadakoy stopping by for a fish sandwich at the wharf or Eminonu. On another occasion we walked down a very steep cobbled street and found ourselves in Kumkapi, a region where Armenians lived in the Ottoman era. Now a buzzing nightspot with its cafes, its chief draw is the profusion of crates and baskets of fresh fish and sea food on display. One simply chooses one's lunch or dinner and it is fried up and served alfresco.